The banana grove in Tsikhisdziri is the most "tropical" spot on the Adjara coast: banana thickets on a slope above the sea, a wooden beach under the cliff, a small waterfall and a railway line where a train rumbles past from time to time. The mix of greenery, rock and water earned the place the nickname "Georgian Bali", and day tours from Batumi already come here. Here is what to see, how hard the descent is and how to get there on your own.
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What the Banana Grove Is Known For
Tsikhisdziri is a village between Batumi and Kobuleti, known first of all for the Byzantine Petra Fortress and the five-star Castello Mare hotel on the cliff. The banana grove sits right between them, on the slope that runs down from the highway to the sea. The plot is small, you can walk it in half an hour, but it looks as if you had turned off an Adjarian road somewhere into Southeast Asia: broad ragged leaves taller than a person, damp shade, a concrete path heading down to the water.
The nickname "Georgian Bali" stuck to the whole bundle: the grove, the stairs, the wooden deck of the beach under the rocks and the waterfall next to it. Entry is free, there are no turnstiles or ticket desks, and that is one reason the place caught on so fast with people looking for things to see around Batumi beyond the standard set.
Bananas in Georgia: Why They Never Ripen
The question everyone asks: are these real bananas? Real, but you will not get to eat them. The plants in Tsikhisdziri were brought in, and the Adjarian subtropics are enough for them to grow, flower and even set bunches. Ripening is where the heat runs out: summer ends before the fruit builds up sugar, and small green bunches hang under the leaves until the cold. In winter the leaves freeze back, by May the grove grows out again.
So the bananas here are decoration, and a very good one. In July and August the grove is at its thickest, in May and June the leaves are fresh without sunburn, and in October those green bunches appear, worth looking up for.
What to See on Site
The Descent and the Grove
A long staircase leads from the highway down to the grove. The descent starts at 41.759001, 41.748901, the steps run down for about five minutes, and the banana grove begins right after them. The staircase is steep, with uneven steps, slippery after rain; for people with mobility problems or with a stroller it will be hard, fair warning. The best part starts at the bottom: the path winds between the trunks, and in the shade of the bananas it is a few degrees cooler than up by the road.
The Wooden Beach
Through the grove the path leads to another set of steps, the descent to the wooden beach. It is a plank deck over pebbles and rocks, with a cafe right above the water, and people come here to swim. The entry into the sea is rocky and fairly steep, the water is clear, but there is sometimes a current along the shore: do not swim far out and do not leave children in the water unattended, there are no lifeguards. If you want to compare it with the city beaches, look at the best beaches of Batumi: Tsikhisdziri beats them on quiet and views, loses on comfort.
The Waterfall by the Steps
Next to the steps down to the beach, water falls off the cliff. It is not a mountain river but a drainage channel that reaches the edge and forms a small waterfall: in summer people cool off in it after the descent, and in photos it looks completely natural.
The Railway
A second path out of the grove leads to the Batumi - Kobuleti railway line laid along the shore. Shots of a train against the sea and bananas come out striking, and many people come precisely for them. But this is a working line, trains move fast and appear around the bend without warning: do not stand on the tracks, shoot from the side and hold children by the hand. The way to the beach passes under a railway arch at one point, that is the normal route; walking along the sleepers is not.
Where It Is and How to Get There
The grove is in the village of Tsikhisdziri, Kobuleti municipality, about 20 km from the centre of Batumi and 9 km from Kobuleti; grove coordinates 41.760553, 41.746979. By car from Batumi 30-40 minutes, by marshrutka about 45 minutes with stops.
By Marshrutka and Bus from Batumi
Get off at the "Castello Mare" stop on the highway, by the turn to the hotel. From the stop to the start of the stairs is a 10-15 minute walk along the road towards the sea. Everything heading north from Batumi along the coast passes Tsikhisdziri, and there are several convenient options:
| Route | Departure point in Batumi |
|---|---|
| Marshrutka 123 | 42 Baku Street (stop by the Church of the Holy Spirit) |
| Bus Batumi - Kobuleti | From the Argo cable car, stop near 2 Gari Merkviladze Street |
| Marshrutka 40 | Runs through the whole city: Davit Aghmashenebeli, Tbel Abuseridze, Pushkin, Ilia Chavchavadze and Baku streets |
| Marshrutkas Batumi - Ozurgeti, Batumi - Poti, Zugdidi - Batumi, bus Batumi - Jikhanjuri | Old Bus Station of Batumi, 1 St. Severian Achareli Street |
Tell the driver you need Castello Mare: the stop on the highway does not stand out and is easy to miss. On the way back flag down any marshrutka towards Batumi on the opposite side of the road; on summer evenings they can be packed, worth keeping in mind when planning.
By Car
From Batumi along the Kobuleti highway to the Castello Mare sign, then down towards the hotel. There is a paid car park by the turn, from it about 500 metres on foot downhill along a concrete path among eucalyptus trees to the start of the stairs. You cannot drive to the grove itself, it lies below the road.
Your own car beats the marshrutka here also because in one trip you can take in Petra, Kobuleti and the dendrological park in Shekvetili. For coastal drives it makes sense to rent a car through Localrent: local companies hand over the car in Batumi and are not surprised by pebble dust inside on return.
By Car with a Driver
If you would rather skip marshrutkas and car parks, you can book a transfer with waiting time on GoTrip.ge: the driver brings you to the descent, waits while you walk and swim, and takes you back at a fixed price per car. A taxi from Batumi is cheaper one way, but finding a car back from Tsikhisdziri through an app is hard, you end up flagging one down by the turn on the highway.
With a Tour
The richest option is the Georgian Bali tour from Batumi. In one day you see not just the grove and the beach but also Petra Fortress with its viewpoint over the sea, Sameba church with the panorama of Batumi, the abandoned lemon greenhouse at the foot of the fortress, and have lunch at a trout farm. The descents and swimming are built into the programme, the guide is local and knows where to photograph the train safely.
What to See Nearby
- Petra Fortress - a 6th-century Byzantine fortress on the neighbouring cliff; from the upper platform you see Kobuleti and, on a clear day, Batumi. On foot from the grove it is 10-15 minutes up and along the highway, the marshrutka stop is called "Petra Fortress".
- Castello Mare - a castle-style hotel on a 24-metre cliff above the bay, the very landmark people use to find the grove. Even if you are not a guest, you will pass its gates on the way down.
- The abandoned lemon greenhouse - a Soviet-era glasshouse at the foot of Petra where lemons were grown. An atmospheric spot for photos; going inside is at your own risk.
- Church of the Holy Trinity on Mount Sameba - on the way back to Batumi, the best panorama of the city and the port. Tour programmes usually combine the grove and the church in one day.
- Kobuleti, 9 km to the north: a long pebble beach, a promenade, cafes. If you are staying there, check the trips from Kobuleti, some routes pick travellers up along the way.
The grove, Petra, the dendrological park and the Ureki sands in a single day come together in the Sameba Temple, Dendropark, Petra Fortress and Magnetic Sands trip: an option for those who want more than one tropical spot and would like to end the day swimming on sand.
Tips for the Trip
- Closed shoes with a non-slip sole only: the steps, the concrete path and the trail in the grove turn into an ice rink after rain. Keep flip-flops in the backpack for the beach.
- Best time is May to October; swimming is comfortable from June to September. In winter and off-season the grove looks battered and the trail is wet.
- For photos plan for the morning or the hour before sunset: at midday there are deep shadows under the leaves and the sun is straight in your face on the beach.
- Bring water and a snack. The only cafe is down on the beach, up by the highway there are shops, and in the grove itself nothing.
- The descent is doable with children, but hand in hand and without rushing; small ones are better in a carrier than a stroller.
- If you want to stay by the sea overnight, Tsikhisdziri has both Castello Mare and guesthouses on the slope between the highway and the shore; it is easy to compare them on Booking.com, most can be booked without prepayment.
Our group trips to Tsikhisdziri run with a driver and a guide in one vehicle: one watches the road, the other watches the group on the stairs and by the railway, which matters here more than it seems.
Frequently Asked Questions
Where is the banana grove and how do I get there from Batumi?
In the village of Tsikhisdziri, between the Castello Mare hotel and Petra Fortress, about 20 km from Batumi. Any marshrutka towards Kobuleti will take you to the "Castello Mare" stop on the highway, then it is a 10-15 minute walk to the start of the stairs. By car 30-40 minutes.
Are the bananas real and can you try them?
The bananas are real, brought in from elsewhere, but in the Adjara climate the fruit does not ripen: bunches set, stay small and green. You will not get to eat them, but the grove looks like a tropical forest.
Can you swim at the wooden beach?
Yes, people swim here from June to September. The entry into the sea is pebbly and steep, there is sometimes a current along the shore and no lifeguards, so do not swim far out and keep an eye on children.
How hard is the descent to the grove and the beach?
A steep staircase leads from the road to the grove, the descent takes about five minutes, then more steps to the beach. For people with mobility problems and for strollers the route is hard; in closed shoes and without rushing it is manageable for children and older people.
Is there an entrance fee for the banana grove?
No, entry is free, there are no ticket desks or turnstiles. You only pay for the car park by the turn if you come by car, and for whatever you order at the beach cafe.
When is the best time to visit Tsikhisdziri?
May to October: the grove is green, the trail is dry. For swimming, June to September; for photos, morning or evening. After rain and in winter the descent is slippery, better to postpone the trip.
The banana grove in Tsikhisdziri is half a day that fits tropics, sea, a waterfall and a train against the waves, all within half an hour of Batumi. Book the Georgian Bali tour in advance: in season the groups fill up quickly, and the guide will take care of the stairs, the swim and the right spot for the train shot.